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When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.